Angkor Wat

[tzarine]

Any tips?

Where else did you like in Cambodia?

Thanks in advance.

[wombatrois]

We cycled around which was really good - at your own pace and you see things at that slower pace that you don't necessarily see from the back of a tuk tuk. We also took a car out to the further flung temples on another day, which was a great contrast. We didn't bother with sunrise or sunset - too many people. Perhaps if we went again we might. Siem Reap was OK, but not fabulous - it's really just a tourist town now.

We took a boat to Battambang - I would never, ever recommend the boat - it was 8 hours of hell. We were seated on plastic chairs at the back right next to the diesel motor. For 8 hours. The only positive thing I could say is that because we were in the middle of the boat, we were in the shade, whereas the people in the proper seats had sun for half of the trip, no matter which side you sat on. You can probably tell I am scarred for life by the experience. Take the bus! Battambang is a nice small town, although very run down (Cambodia is markedly poorer than Thailand).

We really loved PP - we tend to like cities in Asia anyway, but there are plenty of groovy, funky places to go to keep you interested. We went to S21 which was sobering. Dr W3 went to uni with someone who went missing during Pol Pot's reign (he was sailing a boat off the coast). We didn't go to the killing fields. I'm not sure how people visit S21 then go out to the fields. We were emotionally exhausted after S21.

Kep was a stand out. A really beautiful, laid-back former coastal playground of the rich. There are some lovely places to stay and the food is pretty good here. We stayed at Kampot too, on the river a little way from Kep, which was also lovely. We didn't go to Sihanoukville - it seemed too, I don't know, back packery and on the ant trail. But some people love it.

[Raised_By_Wolves]

I'd rent a bicycle if I could do it again. For the more far-flung temples hire a moto with driver, or car and driver. Even back in 2004 it was already so very touristy it was unbearable especially at the most popular/beautiful temples. Hard to get a pic without a face in it that's not made of stone.

Death to the boat to Battambang! I got sunstroke half way through and almost die! I did visit Snookiville but don't remember much. Had an adventure of sorts in the mountain of Bokor.

Wom and I did the same trip, it seems Kep was scary even during the day. It was almost empty and eerie. Many (empty) bullet riddled buildings. I didn't see any other foreign tourists (this has probably changed and more developed now). No electricity at night and the men who guarded my lodging had searchlights on walking round the property til morning. But for some reason I have the fondest memories of Kep, as well as Angkor.

If you do go to Kep don't forget to eat the crabs and bring back Kampot peppercorns (look it up). And of course visit a pepper farm.

[wombatrois]

The bullet riddled houses in Kep were very eery indeed. We had guards patrolling our place as well. The peppercorn purchase and farm visit is a must. Our tuk tuk broke down on that trip, but in the end it was OK and we met a lovely couple from France who shared their tuk tuk back to town with us.

The crab shacks were OK, although a bit overpriced, but then seafood can be in Asia.

I thought Rabbit Island was pretty average.

[sophie]

I spent a week in Siem Reap a few years ago, and really enjoyed taking my time at the various ruins. Rushing through, especially in the heat, I think, will make everything a big blur. It also allows you to go back to places you really liked a second time, and perhaps at a different time of day.

[Bastet]

I really loved PP too. Amazing vibrant place!

At AW temple complex I saw people cycle and perhaps it was a cooler time of year when the posters above were there because those I saw looked utterly miserable, red and sweaty and caked in dust from the roads. It was over 30C and humid - no way if cycle - it hurt just to climb the temples.

We hired a tuk tuk and did the inner and outer circuit of temples and then those ones 40-50km away. It cost $15-25 a day and it was a perfect experience. He was really good and knew how to direct us. Didn't do sunrise - it wasn't sunny so no point. Instead we headed out just after as all the tour busses headed back for breakfast. I loved the places so wonderful. A dream come true for me.

[lisamnz]

I wouldn't like to cycle round the temple areas. Too far and too hot and too dusty.

as well as the ones closer to SR, we also went to Kbal Spean and Banteay Srei. Banteay Srei was my favourite temple.

(as an aside, I found it really interesting then visiting temples on the Laos side - you think about SR and all the temples being just a Cambodian thing, but there are temples in south western Laos that are actually quite close to SR, and the temples are very similar and appear to have been part of the same larger community.)

I thought the beaches at sihanoukville were ok but not marvellous.

[wombatrois]

We left early in the morning and the temp was quite cool - I think we went in August/September. The ride back to town was quite hot, but we had a pool to cool off in when we arrived back, so all was good. It's only about 8km to the temple entry and there was plenty of shade to cool off between temples.

There are temples all in a line with Angkor Wat in Thailand too - Phimai, Phanum Rung, and then Priah Vihear which is the temple that Thailand and Cambodia were arguing about not that long ago. I haven't been to this one, but have been to the others (as well as another smaller temple on the border). I love ruins! The beauty of these others were very few people when we visited.

We're planning on riding bikes around Bagan too for some of the time. Let's hope it's not too hot there. There are electric bikes too, so we'll do that on one of the days and perhaps a car for the further flung ones there.

[lisamnz]

yes wombat - I think one other person was at this one in Laos. totally different atmosphere.
I was there in December/January.

[StripeySocks]

I'm Cambodia planning as well. Think I'll jump into this thread instead of starting a new one.

Has anyone got any recommendations for a jungly/river/trekky (well not actual trekking - there will be pesky kids in tow) type place in Cambodia? So far we're planning to go to PP, SR, Kep, Kampot, one of the islands off Sihanoukville - and I've got about 4 days spare. I've been looking at the Tatai River area near Koh Kong which looks perfect, but could be a bit annoying to get to from Kep/Kampot.

What about any other areas in the Cardamom Mountains region, maybe further south? I had a look at a few eco-tourism places that do village stays, but they all seem to involve hardcore, three day+ treks. I want to plonk myself in a hammock on the verandah of a bungalow, by a river and do nothing.

[Phar Lap]

I'd recommend anyone going to Siem Reap to visit the silk farm at Artisans d'Angkor, it is well worth it. It was created to help the young people to find work in their home villages by providing them with high skilled training and a vocation from which they can earn a living. You can read more about it here.

The sunrise at Angkor Wat was awesome, the sunset not so much as I was in the wrong spot. My favourite temple was Banteay Srei. At Phnom Bakheng, you can ride an elephant up (or down) to the temple. If you ride down from the temple, be sure to hold on tightly.